The Arab street. Map of Jordan -- Head first : lost in Amman -- Palestine, Palestine, Palestine -- Three-minute showers and the Heinz ketchup eaters -- Life in the seven-layer dip -- From American superstar to baby killer. Map of Syria -- Istanbul to Antakya : from Europe's back porch to Syria's doorstep -- Adventures with St. Simon, Jackie Chan, and the ghost of T.E. Lawrence -- Syria's walls : public space and private worlds -- Living the life. "Fast times" at Jordan University and Friday lunch with Abu Alaa -- Anti-Americanism : America haters and the assassination of Laurence Foley -- Fasting without feasting -- Anti-Americanism : American policy critics and a night at the club -- A woman's world -- Crossing Palestine -- Pickaxes and squeegees -- The beating heart of the Arab east. Map of Egypt -- The mother of the world -- Amid the ambers of the Arab street -- Salah al Fuli and the fall of Baghdad -- Beauty and the beasts -- Amman dreaming -- The oasis.